New Spirits Rise in Old, Repurposed Churches

For years, attendance rates have dropped and congregations have closed nationwide. But many reused religious spaces are still sanctuaries.These once-abandoned houses of worship from New Orleans to Singapore are reincarnated as stylish restaurants—and the food is heavenly

By Amelia Nierenberg Photographs and Video by Tristan Spinski

BENTONVILLE, Ark. — In the summer of 1971, William Christopher Cooper, a youth minister, gave his first sermon at the Bentonville United Methodist Church in northwest Arkansas. His father had been a minister, like his father before.

Almost four decades later, in 2017, his son, Matt Cooper, helped open a restaurant in a former church across the street. Along with partners, he called it the Preacher’s Son. There was not really any other option.

“My father’s side are all Methodist ministers and my mom’s side are all in food technology,” Mr. Cooper, the executive chef, said. “I guess they kind of got what they wanted: I’m the executive chef of a church.”

Mr. Cooper leans on local farms and butchers for ingredients, serving the community where he has lived his whole life. Now, during the coronavirus, the restaurant has outdoor dining and tables spread out through the space.

“What a church does is provide a place for people to gather and to support each other,” he said.